Narrative of a Residence in Koordistan I

CONTENTS

Notice respecting the Maps / ix
Preface / xi
Brief Notice of the Life of Mr, Rich / xv

CHAPTER I
Departure from the Residency—Manner of travelling—Description of our Party—Thunder-storms— Kifri—Sassanian Ruins—Beiat Chiefs Hospitality—Naphtha Springs at Toozkhoormattee / 1

CHAPTER II
Departure from Toozkhoormattee—The Valley of Leilan—YusuffAga's camp—His hospitality— Entrance into Koordistan—Cultivation and appearance of the country—Present of provisions from the Pasha of Sulimania—Arrival at our camp before Sulimania—Visit of the Pashas—of Koordish gentlemen / 35

CHAPTER III
Osman Bey—Entrance into Sulimania—Visit to the Pasha—Description of our House—Attachment of the Koords to their Chiefs- Anecdotes— Partridge Fighling—Afghans in Shehrizoor—Xenophon and the Ten Thousand / 76

CHAPTER IV
Conversation with the Pasha—Kai Khosroo' Bey—Koordish Tribe of the Jafs—Climate of Sulimania—Breakfast with (he Pasha—Population of Sulimania—Firing at a Mark—Takhti Suliman—Ancient Excavations— Musical Party—The Zor Khaneh. or Gymnasium— Dmner at Osman Bey's— Orit-ntal prayers—Stdiman Bey— Feats of Swordsmanship—Agriculture—The Ramazau /111

CHAPTER V
Brave Russian Soldier—Cruelty of the Prince of Kermanshah—Great Mahometan Saint—Natural Productions of Koordistan—Piety of Mahmood Pasha—Anecdote—Abdullah Pasha arrested—The Bairam— Koordish Tribes—Anecdote—The Bulbassi Tribes—The reigning Families in Koordistan—Arrival of Delli Samaan with Antiques / 139

CHAPTER VI
Departure from Sulimania for the Mountains—The Pass of Giozheh— Tents pitched at Gherradeh—Beauty of the situation—Noise and bustle of loading—High Mountains—Vineyards—Corn—Beautiful Country—Officer of the Chief of the District of Kizzeljee—Laughable Equivoque—Steep Ascent—Sons of Khaled Bey—Cantonment at Ahmed Kulwan—Reapers singing the Tale of Ferhad and Shireen —Locusts—Temperature of Springs—Green Frogs—Curious Game —Leave Ahmed Kulwan—Journey to Beesfan—Artificial Mounts— Uuhealthiness of Beestan—Our People all taken ill—Leave Beestan
—Penjween—Jaf encampments—Moving parties—Lady and her servants—Jews / 159

CHAPTER VII
Entrance into Persia—Lake of Zeribar—Kai Khosroo Bey—Jaf encampment— Djereeding match—Cross Mount Zagros—Garran peasantry— Inclement winter—Jaf quarrel—Sinna—Magnificent collation— The palace—Tyranny of the Vali of Sinna—General mourning —Rebellion—Death of the Vali's son—Despair and cruelty of the Vali—Terror of his subjects—Change in our plans—Consternation of the Vali's ministers—Entreaties of the council—Are successful— Their joy and gratitude—Departure from Sinna for the camp of the Vali / 155

CHAPTER VIII
Leave Sinna—Appearance of the Country—Tents of Gulaneh—The Koords great politicians—The Kizzel Ozan River—Encampments— A Peasant's remark—Lawless conduct of the Jafs—Precipitous Road —Refreshments of Honey and Butter—Arrival at to Village of Meek—Mrs. Rich taken on to another Village—Bee-hive—Rejoin Mrs. Rich—Present of Fruit from the Vali—Arrival at Sana—The Vali's Son—Fine Fruit. / 221

CHAPTER IX
Visit to the Vali of Sinna—The Castle of Banna—Conversation of the Vali—Marriage of his Son—The Vali returns my visit—His cruelty at Banna—Preparations for our departure—Unexpected hindrances —Difficulty of obtaining Cattle—Vali's Apologies—The Sultan of Banna—Begin our march—Village Chief—Refuses to allow us to proceed on our journey—Disagreeable situation—Determine to fight our way—The Chief alarmed—Allows us to proceed—Mountains— Enter the Bebbeh Territorj'— Omar Aga's retainers— Ruins of Karatcholan—Fine Fruit—Precipitous Hills—Arrival at Sulimania / 242

CHAPTER X
Failure of Vaccination—Death of Osman Bey's Son—Sorrow of the Pasha—Antiquities of Shehrizoor—Alexander the Great and the Indian Princess—Names of districts—Omar Aga—His persecutions and imprisonment—Attachment of his Followers—His disinterestedness —His dislike of Osman Bey—Rahmet ullah Tartar—His journey through the wild and inaccessible Mountains inhabited by the Chaldean Christian Tribes—Amadia—The Pasha's advice to the Tartar—His difficulties and dangers—Chaldean Cantonment—Ricebread —Astonishment of the Chaldeans at the sight of Rahmet
ullah—Their contempt for Mahommed—Yczids—Van—Names of Koordish Clans—Wedding feast—Ladies dancing—Condition of the Koordish Women—A Koordish Marfisa—Dress of the Men— Tale of Darishmana—A Bebbeh Patriarch / 268

CHAPTER XI
The Pasha melancholy and depressed—His eldest Son sent a hostage to Kermanshah — Sickness of the youngest—Dissensions in his family—Ahmed Bey of Darishmana—Tribes of Rewandiz—Koordish funeral — Bebbeh family—Series of Bebbeh Princes— Death of Pasha's child by Small-pox — Affliction of the Pasha—Suliman Bey—Commerce of Sulimania—Conversation with Osman Bey— The Pasha's desire to abdicate—Omar Aga—His intelligence and accuracy—Comparison between the Koords, the Turks, and the Persians —Lokman—Farewell visit to the Pasha—Religious conversation— Osman Bey ordered to his Government—Refuses to obey—Traits of Koordish character—Flight of the great Dervish Sheikh Khaled—Pasha's last visit to Mr. Rich—Interesting conversation— Pasha's grief for the loss of his Son—His character—Preparations for leaving Koordistan—Sorrow at bidding adieu to its interesting People / 298

APPENDIX
I. Fragment of a Journal from Bagdad to Sulimania, by Mrs. Rich / 331
II. Information, collected from Natives, concerning Jezira and the adjacent Country / 375
III. A Series of the Princes of the Bebbeh Family / 381
Dates and Facts connected with the History of Koordistan  / 385
IV. Routes procured at different places / 388
V. Particulars relating to the Topography of Koordistan  / 390
VI. Specimens of the Koordish Language, in various Dialects / 394