To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in Disguise

CONTENTS

I —In Stamboul / I
II —From Constantinople to Hierapolis / 16
III —From the Euphrates to the Tigris, Edessa (Urfa), and Amid (Diarbekr) / 34
IV —Down the Tigris to Mosul / 60
V —Mosul, the Cities of the Assyrians, the Yazidis / 89
VI —The Zab Rivers, Ancient Assyria and Adiabene, Arbela, Kirkuk / 106
VII —Chaldeans / 140
VIII —By the Hamavands to Sulaimania / 163
IX —Sulaimania / 184
X —Shahr-i-Zur / 210
XI —Shahr-i-Zur and Halabja / 248
XII —Life in Sulaimania / 273
XIII — Life in Sulaimania (continued) / 294
XIV —To Kirkuk / 325
XV —To Bagdad / 351
XVI —Of Kurds and their Country / 367

Appendix—Kurdish Tribes / 405

Bibliography / 409

Index / 411

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Jaf Chief, S. Kurdistan / Frontispiece
Bab-ul-top and Auchon Market, Mosul . To face / 92
On the Persian Frontier, S. Kurdistan / 160
Aoraman / 184
The Kurdish Frontier Mountains / 336
Encampment of Jaf Kurds in Shahr-i-zur / 380