VersionsNarrative of a Residence in Koordistan I [English, London, 1836]
Narrative of a Residence in Koordistan II [English, London, 1836]
Narrative of a residence in Koordistan
and on the site of ancient Nineveh
with journal of a voyage down the Tigris to Bagdad
and an acount on a visit to Shirauz and Persepolis
With respect to the Maps which accompany this Work, it has been considered necessary to give a brief description of their construction. In the Map of Koordistan and the adjacent countries, the line of routes and all the detail were protracted, in the first instance, by Mr. Rich, from his bearings and distances ; after which a considerable number of observations for latitude and longitude were put into our hands ; having compared the differences of latitude that were determined by observation, with those which were protracted by Mr. Rich, they coincided with remarkable accuracy; and therefore required very little correction to adjust the positions by the observed latitudes. With respect to the longitudes, we have placed Sulimania in 45° 27' 45", by mean of a great number of eclipses of Jupiter's satellites. We have selected this position in ['reference, because Mr. Rich made a great many more observations at Sulimania than at any other place in Koordistan ; it was likewise the connecting point from which his routes either began or terminated…
CONTENTS
Notice respecting the Maps / ix
Preface / xi
Brief Notice of the Life of Mr, Rich / xv
CHAPTER I
Departure from the Residency—Manner of travelling—Description of our Party—Thunder-storms— Kifri—Sassanian Ruins—Beiat Chiefs Hospitality—Naphtha Springs at Toozkhoormattee / 1
CHAPTER II
Departure from Toozkhoormattee—The Valley of Leilan—YusuffAga's camp—His hospitality— Entrance into Koordistan—Cultivation and appearance of the country—Present of provisions from the Pasha of Sulimania—Arrival at our camp before Sulimania—Visit of the Pashas—of Koordish gentlemen / 35
CHAPTER III
Osman Bey—Entrance into Sulimania—Visit to the Pasha—Description of our House—Attachment of the Koords to their Chiefs- Anecdotes— Partridge Fighling—Afghans in Shehrizoor—Xenophon and the Ten Thousand / 76
CHAPTER IV
Conversation with the Pasha—Kai Khosroo' Bey—Koordish Tribe of the Jafs—Climate of Sulimania—Breakfast with (he Pasha—Population of Sulimania—Firing at a Mark—Takhti Suliman—Ancient Excavations— Musical Party—The Zor Khaneh. or Gymnasium— Dmner at Osman Bey's— Orit-ntal prayers—Stdiman Bey— Feats of Swordsmanship—Agriculture—The Ramazau /111
CHAPTER V
Brave Russian Soldier—Cruelty of the Prince of Kermanshah—Great Mahometan Saint—Natural Productions of Koordistan—Piety of Mahmood Pasha—Anecdote—Abdullah Pasha arrested—The Bairam— Koordish Tribes—Anecdote—The Bulbassi Tribes—The reigning Families in Koordistan—Arrival of Delli Samaan with Antiques / 139
CHAPTER VI
Departure from Sulimania for the Mountains—The Pass of Giozheh— Tents pitched at Gherradeh—Beauty of the situation—Noise and bustle of loading—High Mountains—Vineyards—Corn—Beautiful Country—Officer of the Chief of the District of Kizzeljee—Laughable Equivoque—Steep Ascent—Sons of Khaled Bey—Cantonment at Ahmed Kulwan—Reapers singing the Tale of Ferhad and Shireen —Locusts—Temperature of Springs—Green Frogs—Curious Game —Leave Ahmed Kulwan—Journey to Beesfan—Artificial Mounts— Uuhealthiness of Beestan—Our People all taken ill—Leave Beestan
—Penjween—Jaf encampments—Moving parties—Lady and her servants—Jews / 159
CHAPTER VII
Entrance into Persia—Lake of Zeribar—Kai Khosroo Bey—Jaf encampment— Djereeding match—Cross Mount Zagros—Garran peasantry— Inclement winter—Jaf quarrel—Sinna—Magnificent collation— The palace—Tyranny of the Vali of Sinna—General mourning —Rebellion—Death of the Vali's son—Despair and cruelty of the Vali—Terror of his subjects—Change in our plans—Consternation of the Vali's ministers—Entreaties of the council—Are successful— Their joy and gratitude—Departure from Sinna for the camp of the Vali / 155
CHAPTER VIII
Leave Sinna—Appearance of the Country—Tents of Gulaneh—The Koords great politicians—The Kizzel Ozan River—Encampments— A Peasant's remark—Lawless conduct of the Jafs—Precipitous Road —Refreshments of Honey and Butter—Arrival at to Village of Meek—Mrs. Rich taken on to another Village—Bee-hive—Rejoin Mrs. Rich—Present of Fruit from the Vali—Arrival at Sana—The Vali's Son—Fine Fruit. / 221
CHAPTER IX
Visit to the Vali of Sinna—The Castle of Banna—Conversation of the Vali—Marriage of his Son—The Vali returns my visit—His cruelty at Banna—Preparations for our departure—Unexpected hindrances —Difficulty of obtaining Cattle—Vali's Apologies—The Sultan of Banna—Begin our march—Village Chief—Refuses to allow us to proceed on our journey—Disagreeable situation—Determine to fight our way—The Chief alarmed—Allows us to proceed—Mountains— Enter the Bebbeh Territorj'— Omar Aga's retainers— Ruins of Karatcholan—Fine Fruit—Precipitous Hills—Arrival at Sulimania / 242
CHAPTER X
Failure of Vaccination—Death of Osman Bey's Son—Sorrow of the Pasha—Antiquities of Shehrizoor—Alexander the Great and the Indian Princess—Names of districts—Omar Aga—His persecutions and imprisonment—Attachment of his Followers—His disinterestedness —His dislike of Osman Bey—Rahmet ullah Tartar—His journey through the wild and inaccessible Mountains inhabited by the Chaldean Christian Tribes—Amadia—The Pasha's advice to the Tartar—His difficulties and dangers—Chaldean Cantonment—Ricebread —Astonishment of the Chaldeans at the sight of Rahmet
ullah—Their contempt for Mahommed—Yczids—Van—Names of Koordish Clans—Wedding feast—Ladies dancing—Condition of the Koordish Women—A Koordish Marfisa—Dress of the Men— Tale of Darishmana—A Bebbeh Patriarch / 268
CHAPTER XI
The Pasha melancholy and depressed—His eldest Son sent a hostage to Kermanshah — Sickness of the youngest—Dissensions in his family—Ahmed Bey of Darishmana—Tribes of Rewandiz—Koordish funeral — Bebbeh family—Series of Bebbeh Princes— Death of Pasha's child by Small-pox — Affliction of the Pasha—Suliman Bey—Commerce of Sulimania—Conversation with Osman Bey— The Pasha's desire to abdicate—Omar Aga—His intelligence and accuracy—Comparison between the Koords, the Turks, and the Persians —Lokman—Farewell visit to the Pasha—Religious conversation— Osman Bey ordered to his Government—Refuses to obey—Traits of Koordish character—Flight of the great Dervish Sheikh Khaled—Pasha's last visit to Mr. Rich—Interesting conversation— Pasha's grief for the loss of his Son—His character—Preparations for leaving Koordistan—Sorrow at bidding adieu to its interesting People / 298
APPENDIX
I. Fragment of a Journal from Bagdad to Sulimania, by Mrs. Rich / 331
II. Information, collected from Natives, concerning Jezira and the adjacent Country / 375
III. A Series of the Princes of the Bebbeh Family / 381
Dates and Facts connected with the History of Koordistan / 385
IV. Routes procured at different places / 388
V. Particulars relating to the Topography of Koordistan / 390
VI. Specimens of the Koordish Language, in various Dialects / 394
PREFACE
The account of the Author which is contained in the following- Introduction supersedes the necessity of any biographical notice in this Preface. For that account the editor is indebted to the kindness of a friend, who does not wish his name to be mentioned, and of whom, therefore, she will say no more, than that his personal knowledge of the subject, and his intimate interest in it, well qualified him for the office which at her request he undertook.
The volumes now submitted to the reader are all which exist of a work begun by ]\Ir. Rich on a very extensive scale. He therefore applied himself diligently to the study of various scientific subjects, by the knowledge of which he hoped to accomplish his design. He felt that a very different book of travels in the East would be expected from one who had enjoyed so many advantages as himself, than could be claimed from the generality of travellers ; for he had spent many years in Asia ; he spoke several Asiatic languages fluently ; and he was intimately acquainted with the character and manners of the people. It will be found, accordingly, that he is evidently at home in the countries which he describes ; that his observations, being in his own mind the result of long experience, are not given as new discoveries, but as well ascertained facts ; and many allusions are made which indicate his intimacy with the feelings and habits of the country, but which will perhaps either appear obscure, or pass unheeded by those who may not be equally well acquainted with the subject. If he had been spared, and had himself published his materials, he would have added alike to their interest as to their bulk, by introducing very full details of his personal narrative, and of his daily intercourse with the people.
As it is, his papers now published record chiefly those particulars which he noted down at once, lest they should escape his memory, and the whole value of which depended upon their accuracy. These he would probably have compressed, after finishing his map, for the purpose of constructing which, he was thus minute in his observations on the face of the country, and other points connected with geography.
However, though these volumes are less filled up with the incidents which occurred in the journey, than would have been the case if they had passed from the author to the press, the Editor hopes that they will not he without their use. They in great part describe a country little visited by Europeans, and never, it is believed, described by any Englishman ; and, in that view, if in nothing else, they will, it is hoped, repay the reader. If it be asked why this work was not published sooner, the Editor can only answer that the delay arose from many circumstances, with the recital of which she need not trouble the world.
Under a deep consciousness of her own inability for such an undertaking, she long shrunk from attempting it, but she has been encouraged and cheered in her task by the sympathy and assistance of many kind friends, among whom she cannot forbear naming Sir R. II. Inglis, who, in the midst of his numerous avocations, spared no pains to make her work easy to her, and was always ready to afford her help and counsel.
Clapham, 5th March, 1836.
Narrative of a residence in Koordistan
and on the site of ancient Nineveh
with journal of
a voyage down the Tigris to Bagdad
and an acount on a visit to
Shirauz and Persepolis
By the Late Claudius James Rich, Esq.
The Hon.East India Company's resident at Bagdad
Author of "An Account of Acient Babylon"
Edited by His Widow
Two Volumes - Vol. 1
Londos
James Duncan, Paternoster row
MDCCCXXVI
(1836)
