Contents
Chapter I.
Illness.-Hiring camels.-On march.-Old Jellāl.-Jemohad and his family.-We reach Jagin.-The river impassable.-Tājoo.-Balūch salutations.-The impassability of the river is exploded.-An anxious crossing.-Abdulla.-Male camels in the breeding season.-A day's ibex-shooting.-A night march.-Cross the Sadaich river.-We turn north.-Shūr hills.-Chamoerops Ritchiana.-We change guides.-Men in buckram.-Camp in the Sārtāpi / Pp. 1-26
Chapter II.
Pitching camp.-The bivouac.-Ousted by the rain.-Balūchi powder.-Toby makes trouble.-"Inchruki dārū."-The Gidich Valley.-Nerium oleandrum, the poison-bush.-Road-making in its infancy.-Gorgeous colouring of hills.-Irrigation in the Gari river.-Our reception at Bint.-Pitching camp under difficulties. -Bint, its products and inhabitants.-The literary and religious element. Mīr Hājī.-The pipe of brotherhood.-Diplomacy in Baluchistan.-Disgust of Salah the orthodox at finding the soi-disant Sunnis to be Sufis / Pp. 27-55
Chapter III.
Start for Bampur.-Our new companions.-Icy cold, wind.-Camels dangerous at night.-Mountain scenery. -The Fanōch pass. -Fish and crabs.-Reception at Fanōch. -A Persian slave. Jellāl as doctor.-The last of the donkeys.-The "Pai-i-duldul-i-Ali."-We emerge from the mountains and open on the desert. -Maskhūtān.-Quarrel about the cooking.-Our guide Kuli.1farri, the valley of desolation.-A grotesque scene.-The Bampūr desert.-A gentleman on a cow.-Reception at Bampūr.-Politics at Bampūr.-I am an officer of artillery.-Messing with the Khan.-Barley water.-The position of Persian and Turkish soldiers compared.-A curious mill.-Awkward position on a cow.-Old Jellāl.-Leave Bampūr.-Jellāl's camel wants a breastband.-Small-pox.-A horrible banquet.-Frozen out.-A cold ride.-The Pai-i-duldul-i-Ali renovated.-"Home, sweet home."-Jooji and the fowls / pp. 56-99
Chapter IV.
'Mehdi, the gay deceiver.-Poor Ghulamshah.-My Prayer-book.-The Sadaich river.-Baggage goes astray.-Asking the way under difficulties.-We get clear of the hills.-River crossing in the Mekran.-A ducking.-A long night ride.-White men. / pp. 100-121
Chapter V.
By Sea And Land.
Preparations for a fresh journey.-Henjam Island.-Botanizing.-Ruined houses.-The Benoo Yass pearl-fishers.-Salt caves.-Curious well.-"Petrified date-trees."-Intense heat.-"Taking sights."-Transporting camels by water.-Kishm Island.-Sulky camel-men.-Lose my way.-Haji Ahmed's garden.-Old man and bull.-Breakfast.-A delicate question.-Kishm agriculture.-A thirsty walk.-A drink of water.-Sulky camel-men out-marched.-A barren fig-tree.-A late start and a long night-march.-Exciting moment.-Arrive at Kishm.-The wreckers.-Unfriendliness of the Sheikh.-Bearded in his majlis.-Difficulties of shipbuilders.-Start at last.-Among the breakers.-" There's many a slip."-Terra firma at last.-Bandar Abbas.-Mināb.-A Balūch army.-Left in the lurch.-Government donkeys.-A long march.-On board the steamer.-Curiosities of postal delivery.-Bahrein donkeys.-A race and a bathe. Pearl-fishing.-Abou Shihr (Bushire).-Jask / pp. 122-151
Chapter VI.
Western Baluchistan.
Geigen.-The caravan.-J elliil stays behind.-" Marro assllchi."-Buying camels.-Honesty of the people.-" Great expectations."-The Tang-i-Duhl.-A crisis.-Alishah.-Rain again.-An elderly man.-A bad day's sport.-A swarm of locusts.-Rumours of disaffection.-Difficulty in keeping dead reckoning.-Pitch plaister.-Dazaka / Pp. 152-119
Chapter VII.
On Foot to Anguhran.
An embassy.-A durbar.-An Arab in difficulties.-Guides and the route.-A horrible murder.-Bashakard politics.-Negotiations. -En route for Anguhran.-The Rais Ali's mountain stronghold.-Bashakard scenery.-A horned snake.-•A night in a Bashakardi hut.-Demons at last / Pp. 180-204
Chapter VIII.
Seif Allah Khan's fortress.-The river system.-Balūch marriage difficulties.-Nightmare hyænas.-The Kagar Koh and ancient fort.-Leave Rais Ali's.-Watched off the premises.-Fowls and eggs.-Geological researches unappreciated.- Partridge shooting extraordinary.-More murder.-Stealing the guns of the watch. -The demons are bears.-Camels in trouble with bears and snakes.-Start for the spring of oil.-The Khan lectures on botany / pp. 205-229
Chapter IX.
We Enter Persian Territory.
A ruined village.-Welcomed as traders in fish.-Bivouac stories.-Ancient burying-ground.-Telling.-Another postal curiosity.-More doctoring.-Mutiny again.-Successful tactics.-Our new guide Hussein.-We try to become Persians.-The" wide wide world. "-Difficult passes.-Manujan.-Quack doctoring. Bustards.-Bargah.-Red-legged partridges.-Kahnu. / Pp. 230-254
Chapter X.
Kahnu.-" Your is have some spirits."-A poor slave.-Irrigation.-Difficulties as a doctor. - The Haliri river. - Butter unex-pectedly.-Washing clothes.-Dosari.-Camp in a graveyard.-Nasir Khan.-His brutish secretary.- Persian tax-col1ectors.-An indigenous pointer dog.-Our new guide..- The "exalted places" are unable to make good their position..-Thol1ghts of home.-Dasht-i-Kuch. Persiancarpets. / pp. 255-278
Chpter XI.
We Cross the Mountains.
The climb commenced.-Sagdir.~Aninhabitant.-Mountain scenery by starlight.--The Ushteroon Gudar.-The Bag-i-asp-i-Ismail Khan.-We see our way out of the mountains.-The cherub exhausted.-The Mahri's misadventure.-Flat ground again.-Antiquarian discovery.-Our first caravanserai.-The camels too tall for once.-Snugly ensconced.-Poor Ghulamshah duped once more.-A mill.-The cherub gives trouble.-Puzzling the Persian.-The young lieutenant.-No camel-fodder.-Ridiculously large radishes.-"Lā, hani, dilam hā abu.."-Hospitable reception at Raiûn.-An amusing incident.-The camels break down.-Poison.-A weary delay.-Raiûn.-Kirman illuminated in honour of the Shah having purchased Baghdad.-Persian steel-workers.-Glass-blower.-Remove to the old fort.-En route again..-The end of the cherub / pp. 279-304
Chapter XII.
We reach Kirman.
A troop of Persian officers..-Ragged rascals..-Hanaka.-The first "ice we saw.-Mahun.-The menagerie.-An obstinate cow.-Al hamdu lillah.-Kirman at last / pp. 3°5-313
Chapter XIII.
Life at Kirman.
A Persian palace.-Interview with the Wakil-al-Mulk.-His knowledge of English.-Alleged discovery of coal.-I nearly put my foot in it.-Comfortably installed.-Persian carpets.-Daily routine in Kirman.--The Commander-in-chief of the forces.-The box sextant.-Topics of conversation with the Khan.-Irrigation and windmills.-The Bazaars.-The Mint.-Kashmir shawl manufactory.-The College.-The Dungeon.-A prisoner released.-The Hindu colony.-Our mess,-The Khan's treasurer comes over.-Parting with my Baluchis.-Take leave of the Khan / pp. 314-334
Chapter XIV.
En Route for Yezd.
Our new caravan.-Muleteers and mules.-Ghulamshah's introduction to a horse.-Our garrulous friend.-He is pounced upon by the Charvadar.-Extraordinary affection of mules for leading pony.-Night in a caravanserai.-"Kum Karda."-The Kāshuwelli.-Value of bells on the march.-Commissariat arrangements.- Our soldier escort and his steed.-Night marches.-A dwarf camel.-Persian way of "bitting" a camel.-Bahramabad.-Designs on my Westley-Richards.-A pun in Persian.-Feeding camels.-The wall and the masjid, Or two strings to the bow.-Anar Fort, and the deputation of distressed agriculturists.-Annoying curiosity of natives.-The sextant capsized.-We reach Yezd.-Neglected by the authorities.-Our fanatic friends.-Syeds.-Their gold mine discoveries.-Their murders.-Trade and silk manufactures.-The gabrs.-Brobdingnagian beet-root.-The present city getting gradually buried as the former one has been.--The soldier gets my gun for his horse.-We leave Yezd / pp. 335-355
Chapter XV.
Yezd to Ispahan.
The Hāji and his horse.-Our new caravan.-A stirring gallop.-Desertion by the muleteer.-Disaster to the chronometer.-Worst fears confirmed.-Night march back to Yezd.-The Hāji at home.-Maibut.-The weaver's beam of the Bible explained.-Minimum thermometers at night.-More Syeds.-Warmer weather.-We part company with the Hāji.-Difficulties ahead.-Snowed up.-Mulberries and vinegar as a diet.-Thermometer 18° Fahrenheit and no roof-Fishark.-Attempt to deceive.-Its consequences.-Triumph on my part.-View across the Ispahan valley.-Mare night marching.- "Hinges" upsets the butcha.-Wild fowl on the Ispahan river.-A tiresome finish.-Ispahan at last.-Meet a white man.-Bass' beer / pp. 356-368
Chapter XVI.
Ispahan.
Sad news of our Balūchis.-Defeat of the Customs authorities.-Ispahan and Yezd.-Destructian by the Affghans.-Chehil Sitūn.The shaking minarets.-The governor.-The Ispahan river and bridges.-Persian carpets.-Julfa.-Its cheapness of living, etc.-The Armenians.-Starting for Baghdad.-I buy a new horse.-Get a new groom.-Start far Kirmanshahan.-Ali Akber.-Curious device of caravanserai doors.-Attempt to levy black mail.-Muhammad the ruddy-faced deserts us and returns home.-An old shepherd.-Nearlya row at the village of Husseini.-Deh Hakand the cold.-Slatedoors.-Ungrateful ophthalmic patients.-Terrible cold, thermometers below zero.-Durr Kokah.Heavy snow.-Kokah and the magpies' parliament.-Caravan of wheat from Kirmanshahan.-A miserable march to Khomain.-Hadi turns out a trump.-Difficulties as an amateur charvadar.-Narrow escape of falling into river.-We reach Khomain / pp. 369-391
Chapter XVII.
The charvadar and his best clothes.-We halt.-Deputations from the natives.-Discovery of America.-The house on fire.-Bakhtiaris.-Haft Lang and Chahar Lang.-March to Khurumabad.-Terrible snow pass.-A real hardship.-Icy cold west wind always dead in our teeth.-No caravanserai.-The Kursi.-Difficulties in engaging house room.-The village system.-Persians essentially nomads.-" Please God, we shall capture Baghdad this time."-March to Imaret.-Delightful village.-Our hard times past.-The lake.-The "Ab bazi" and the fish shooter.-A new kind of wall.-Capons.-A new epoch in the journey.-Mysterious horsemen.-We strike the telegraph line.-Dowletabad. / pp. 392-4°8
Chapter XVIII.
Dowletabad.
Dowletaba.-"Sweep your steps, sir ?"-Shuster and Dizful.-Attempted expedition there.-Difficulties.-Hadi and the corkscrew.-The charvadar and the popguns.-The post from Teheran.-The most mendacious man in the country.-The Telegraph office.-Muhammad of the ruddy face once more turns up.-The Shahzada arrives. -Grand reception, illuminations and band.-Load up for Kirmanshahan.-Parrispar.-A useful bridge.-Grinding oppression.-Pilgrims from Karbala.Summer weather at last.-Mistaken for the post.-A courteous Frenchman (?) in disguise.-" How shall I go outside? Am I not a Darwish? "-A rainy march to Sahna.-Commencement of Kurdistan.-More soldiers going to capture Baghdad.-The little boy whose father was sick.-Bisitun.-Shah Abbas and his 999 caravanserais.-Musuks.-Dogs.-The Kurdi women.-We arrive at Kirmanshahan / pp. 409-432
Chapter XIX.
Kirmanshahan.
The ivory binoculars.-Agha Hassan.-More languages than one.-Spirit rapping.-The little horse distinguishes himself.-Autumn manœuvres.-Water under the grass. - The Hissam as Sultana.-Drives in the Agha's carriages.-Muhammad Khan.-Hāji Mulla Hussein.-Kurind.-The graveyards of the Ali Allahi sect.-A Kurind interior.-Horse-hair veils for ladies.-An old man in difficulties.-From plateau to plain.-A sporting Turkoman telegraphist.-A herd of brood mares.-Toby and the cows.-Mahmud Bey, our new master of horse.-We cross the frontier into Turkey.-Difficulties with the Quarantine authorities.-Cavalry escort.-Sunstroke.-A puzzled stork.-The concert interrupted.-Death of the Bey's horse.-Baghdad.-The plague.-Basreh.-Marseilles.-London / pp. 433-464
Appendix A.-Observations on Dialects of Western Baluchistan / 465
Appendix B.-Botany / 476
Appendix C.-Geography / 480
Appendix D.-Meteorology / 486
Appendix E.-Translations, etc. / 505
Illustrations
Photograph of the Author and his Balūch Servant. . Frontispiece.
Dinner in the Bampūr Desert.-The "salt" question arises Page / 69
Our Station at Jask / 85
Sadaich River / 109
The Fort at Jask / 121
Abdul Nabi / 143
Camp at Surag / 169
The Dazaka Pass.-Night coming on / 179
Baluch Minstrels / 231
Rush Hills / 345
Two of the Expedition who never returned / 369
The Tree of the Fruit of Good and Evil / 462
Map of the Author's Route / At end of volume.
Errata.
Page 332, top line, for tasbiah, read tasbih.
Page 347, line II-at Bairamabad-read as footnote,
"Bairam, corruption of bárán, rain."
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